Caveat emptor !! The following overview and points of interest will hopefully go a long way to help you evaluate this luxury car. A methodical and unrushed inspection is all that is required, to determine whether this Daimler really is the one for you.  

 

Bodywork:

The crucial area on the V8 saloon bodywork is the rear spring hangers and this has to be the priority check. Uncommonly, full cantilever springs are used and these springs are located approximately half-way down the length of the spring and have considerable stress factors to deal with. To compound this, the RH side of the car has a very short Panhard Rod which has to cope with additional sideways forces. Within the proximity is the rear jacking point and that is another common area for serious rust issues. Therefore, even at this early stage, if there is significant structural corrosion in these areas I suggest you walk away unless you are a skilled restorer or have very deep pockets !!

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The rear spats should be removed to check for corrosion along their front edges and where they secure to the main body. From here the next obvious check is the rear wings especially under the bumper and then the boot lid; the latter normally rots out due to the rubber boot seal being past its best allowing water to enter which will also find its way into the spare wheel well; this can be checked from within the boot or underneath. Whilst underneath have a look at the LH side where the petrol tank is located – signs of rust will be obvious. With the rear of the car checked, the next test is the four doors; these tend to be quite robust and rusting is not normally a serious issue. But within the door cavity is sound deadening material which is often a catalyst for corrosion, if it remains wet from water ingress via the window seals. The door drain holes should be clear of debris – if they are, this is a positive sign for the condition of the inner doors; all of which should have drain holes. All doors should open and close freely, the latter emitting a decent sounding “clunk” !! It is useful to cast your eye down the length of the body to ascertain if the doors are proud of their aperture. If this is the case they need adjusting; check also for correct gapping which if poor may flag old accident damage or again, adjustment.  

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The front of the car can now be examined. The first check is the bottom of the front wings which join to the sills, rust is common in this area and you may find previous work to rectify such issues has already been carried out. The closing plate also needs to be inspected. You should be satisfied that any repair work in these areas has been done correctly as this is also a structural aspect. General inspection of the wing around all the light fixings is important, as these act as moisture traps which can accelerate corrosion and is often unseen until it breaks through the paint. Highly important is to check the four “crows feet” situated at the front end, underneath the wing, as these feet secure and support the bottom edges of the wing – it is not uncommon for them to rust and disappear !! Whilst moving around the car check under the RH wing, where the brake servo vacuum storage is located; again another sanctuary for moisture and mud culminating in rust issues to come.

Checking for corrosion inside the car is really a case of removing carpets where possible and locating any damp areas or indeed signs of rust staining through the carpets and underlay. Of note, any rust along the sills - including front & rear ends is a potential alarm bell for trouble ahead, be it the inner or outer sills. The forward jacking points also require checking as they are prone to rust. Removing the carpets will reveal a lot of surface floorpan area and give you a good idea as to the state of any water ingress within the car. Finally, it will be worth asking the owner if you can pop out the rear seat and again this provides a large area of flooring that can be assessed. 

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Time spent wisely on checking the vehicle bodywork, will be money wisely saved !!

Engine and Transmission:

The Edward Turner V8 is, in the main, a very robust unit but like all engines, it does have its weak spots; some of which is encouraged by poor maintenance by the owner or worse many previous owners !! Early cars could suffer from piston crowns departing from the body piston, but from 1968 these were strengthened and instances became very rare. 

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One particular problem is that you have an engine comprising of iron block and alloy cylinder heads. These have never been happy companions, but a lot can be done to prevent issues such as ensuring that a good quality 50/50 mix of antifreeze or rust inhibitor is used. Regrettably, lack of attention to this during the car's life will likely have caused significant corrosion to the waterways in the cylinder head. If the cooling system develops leaks through over pressurisation it is highly probable that the cylinder heads are suspect as a result of corroding waterways.

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The five bearing crankshaft on these engines has three rather narrow centre bearings and these tend to wear within 40K miles. Replacement can be done in situ with four bearings being replaced, with the rearmost one remaining in situ – not ideal though. Worn bearings will contribute heavily towards low oil pressure; ideally, oil pressure in a standard engine should be between 35 and 45psi at 30mph with tickover registering 15psi. It is worth noting that the oil pressure gauge on these V8 saloons is electric and is known to be somewhat inaccurate. It cannot be stressed enough that regular oil changes with a quality oil and filter is the secret to longevity for these turbine-like engines.  

One issue that does blight the engine, in many cases, is the gradual failure of the rear crank oil seal which is an OE rope design. The usual tell-tale sign is oil leaking albeit not much but annoying none the less. The only remedy is replacement or modification; both options require engine removal. 

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The vast majority of the V8 saloons will be equipped with a Borg Warner Type 35  3-speed gearbox. It is a sturdy unit and seldom gives much trouble; some attention will be required at very high mileages but issues can be kept at bay by following the correct service intervals and routine. The same can be said for the Salisbury rear axle, a few cars do have the Power Lock LSD fitted as an optional extra.

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Suspension, Steering and Brakes:

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In essence, the suspension set-up is the same as the Jaguar Mk2, albeit the front spring rates are different due to the lightness of the Edward Turner V8 engine. Front suspension is resilient but regular lubrication via the grease nipples is important to negate issues. The front suspension is carried in a cradle and checks on the forward Metalastik rubbers are necessary to ensure the car retains its smooth handling. Loose handling is often attributed to these rubbers either shearing or de-laminating. As with all vehicles equipped with rear leaf springs, these will settle over the decades and again it is important to check the bushes to ensure the leaf springs are supported properly to function correctly. The V8 saloon is fitted with gas shocks at each corner and these perform without issue up to high mileages.

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The large majority of these cars left the factory with the option of PAS, to complement the Burman re-circulating ball steering. In the main, it is a trouble-free set-up with the later models having sealed ball joints, although there is a lot to be said for those you can grease at service intervals !! Slack in the adjustable steering column is usually the bushes and a straight forward job to replace.

Dunlop disc brakes are OE fitment along with the servo – normally a Lockheed unit. In good condition, the braking efficiency is excellent and well designed. If the vehicle has been laid up for months, it is very possible that sticking caliper pistons will occur causing irregular braking which is a common aspect with numerous classics. Brake pipelines need checking and old-style steel pipes should be changed for Kunifer piping which is a compound of copper and nickel with excellent anti-corrosion and anti-stress properties. 

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Interior and Extras:

The Daimler V8 saloon has a very well-appointed interior, with all leather seats and walnut trim where the model dictates. As such the state of the interior is subjective to the eye of the beholder but significant interior repairs do not come cheap. It is an assessment only the viewer can interpret.
Check the roof lining for stain damage and / or sagging – it's not an easy job to replace. Can the leather seats be brought back from the point of no return, or is a full re-trim on the cards ?? Daimler leather seats are of high quality and much can be done to restore them, even if split or heavily worn.
The operation of the door handles plus window winders needs to be checked. Are all the instruments working, in addition to the individual electric items plus switches ?? Much of these checks are common sense and in the main, Daimler quality tends to ensure longevity on the majority of equipment installed. 

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Road Test:

The car should start on the button and it is advisable to do so from overnight cold. Due to the design of these engines, it is not uncommon for some blue smoke to be seen; most owners just accept it. Auto transmission engagement should be precise coinciding with smooth movement which the engine and transmission is renowned for. Having reached normal operating temperature, the auto box should change smoothly, along with responsive kick-down. In addition, all gears selected should engage without difficulty throughout the various quadrant positions which is located on the steering upper cowling. Problems of engagement may be old oil and / or clogged filters; it may also be a sign that the bands within the auto box are either worn or not aligned correctly.

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The quality of the auto transmission fluid is critical, it should be vibrant in colour and certainly not brown as in overcooked oil. BW auto boxes are not cheap to overhaul, requiring specialised tooling & knowledge.  

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Blue smoke seen on overrun is indicative of valve guide wear and commensurate with the amount of wear; a common occurrence with these engines. Smoke on keen acceleration will be a “bottom end” issue which has been discussed earlier. With the engine idling and in neutral, check the oil pressure reading; ideally 15psi is what you want although not uncommon to be 10psi or so. The above is also applicable to manual transmission vehicles with the addition of checking for judder on moving off. These are certainly some of the specific checks concerning this model of car, with the other usual checks following the route of classic cars generally.

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The above should hopefully give the prospective purchaser a tangible guide to conducting a proper assessment. It is by no means comprehensive but certainly flags the main issues that are pertinent to the model. At the end of the day, the assessment needs to be pragmatic – the car is after all sixty years of age and still a stunner in every way. That said, there can be no substitute for a proper hands-on examination; if in doubt – walk away !!